How we survived on the desert


It’s 6 am. Bus stops at the hotel’s door in Wadi Musa. We’re not the first tourist, there are some people already. Bus will become full during the next hour and all we go to Wadi Rum desert.

After two hours we’re reaching our destination – first stop is at the main gate to the desert, where everyone has to buy a ticket. Then, we’re back to the bus, which drives us to Visitor’s Centre, where our hosts are waiting for all of us. Driver doesn’t like surprises, so at the beginning of the journey he took from us information about booked nights, then he called to our camps to make sure nobody will stay at the Visitor’s Centre alone.

Wadi Rum, Jordan
Wadi Rum, Jordan

Ali was the guy who has picked up us from the Visitor’s Centre. He didn’t drove us directly to the camp – first we have spent the time during 3-hours 4WD jeep tour. We’ve been sitting on the back open part of the car and during the tour we didn’t feel the desert heat, yet. Speed caused the very pleasant breeze. In opposite site was the time spent on exploring the desert. We couldn’t stand the heat, so we’ve been visiting every place in express time.

Kanion Khazali / Khazali canyon, Wadi Rum
Kanion Khazali / Khazali canyon, Wadi Rum

During our tour we’ve been visited such places as Lawrence’s Spring, refreshing Khazali canyon, Little Arch rock formation and red coloured sand dunes, where sandboarding was organize for us. The true, it wasn’t easy attractions. Nobody of us has ever tried snowboarding, it was exhausting to get up on the sand dunes and the sandboard didn’t want to slide easily. Additionally, over 30-degree heat and full sun shining over desert wasn’t the perfect time for any exercise.

Sandboarding in Wadi Rum, Jordan
Sandboarding in Wadi Rum, Jordan

Lack of imagination – I would describe myself when I was planning our trip to Wadi Rum desert. My plan included 3-hours jeep tour and resting in our camp. In my imagination we’ve been sitting on the mattress, drinking hot sweet tea and relaxing. The reality was completely different. Well, that day temperature exceeded 30 degrees – it wasn’t very hot if we compare average temperature on the desert during summer, but it was hot for us, people from northern Europe. Anyway, it happen in Poland that temperature reaches 30 degree outside and we could always stand it. But on the desert – it was completely different feeling.

Wadi Rum, Jordan
Wadi Rum, Jordan

After 3-hours jeep tour we were landed in our camp. There was no cooling wind as we felt on the back site of our jeep, there was no wind at all. The sun at its zenith, no shades, it was stifling in the tent. Our bodies and brains started to overheat. Every movement was an effort and breathing came with increasing difficulty. The water in the bottle become as hot as the tea served to us. We weren’t able to operate. A little bit of shade we’ve found on the rock standing next to the camp. Finally, we have spent half of a day sleeping on the rocks and waiting for the nice coolness, that came in the evening. Exploring the desert after sunset became a nice activity and Wadi Rum desert proved to be a very pleasant and stunning place.

Wadi Rum desert looks completely different from the typical desert we know from TV or internet. The sand isn’t gold, but red and there are much more rocks than sand dunes. But it makes it special and splendid area. Especially during the sunset, when the red become much more intensive.

Wadi Rum is a place that everyone, who’s traveling to Jordan, should visit.

Wadi Rum (Arabic: وادي رم‎‎) also known as The Valley of the Moon (Arabic: وادي القمر‎‎) is a valley cut into the sandstone and granite rock in southern Jordan, (…) it is the largest wadi in Jordan.
Source: Wikipedia


You’ll find large selection of accommodation on the Rumshine camp was the middle price.

We chose: Rumshines Wadi Rum camp (they use name Salem Camp on the

There are beds in the tents. The bathroom with hot and cold water is in the separate building. Breakfast and dinner are served in big social tent.


  • to book a seat in minibus from Wadi Musa to Wadi Rum call: 079 523 52 57
  • you can also ask in your hotell to call to driver and arrange your trip
  • price: 7 JOD, cash only
  • picking up the tourists starts at 6:00 am, the driver stops at each hotel so you don’t have to go to any “bus station”. It takes around 1 hour to fill the bus
  • trip to Wadi Rum takes around 2 hours
  • there’s one stop on the road – at the little coffe shop and grocery


3-hours jeep tour for 2 persons: 55 JOD

Entrance ticket to Wadi Rum desert: 5 JOD (it’s included in Jordan Pass)

Cash only


  • Ask in your camp about jeep or camel tours. We didn’t know if our camp organize such activities, so we’ve sent inquiry to other places on the desert. All of them suggested us to contact with our camp, that was the best solution.
  • There’s a little grocery in the Visitor’s Centre, where you can buy water or snacks
  • There’s no internet in the camp 🙂
  • There’s limited phone network – if you’re lucky you will connect with your family


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  1. Pingback: Wadi Rum – the red desert of Jordan | - Travel and Food blog

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